You know those nights when you’re sitting around, sipping fine tequila, and you start fantasizing about making your own special brand here in the United States? You start to wonder: Could I grow the agave here? Could I wait eight years for the plants to mature? How the hell would I ground and steam those massive piñas? Ninety-nine percent of us would discard the idea as a foolish fantasy, but that’s not what Jorg Rupf and Lance Winters at St. George Spirits did; these wily entrepreneurs actually made their own line of tequilas (except they can’t call them tequila.)
You know those nights when you’re sitting around, sipping fine tequila, and you start fantasizing about making your own special brand here in the United States? You start to wonder: Could I grow the agave here? Could I wait eight years for the plants to mature? How the hell would I ground and steam those massive piñas? Ninety-nine percent of us would discard the idea as a foolish fantasy, but that’s not what Jorg Rupf and Lance Winters at St. George Spirits did; these wily entrepreneurs actually made their own line of tequilas (except they can’t call them tequila.)
Last winter St. George launched its Agua Azul spirit –in Cristal (blanco), reposado and añejo. Lucky for us, the St. George distillery is just over the bridge in Alameda, so we took a trip there last weekend along with our friends Justin and Kathleen.
St. George is known for its Hangar One vodka and Absinthe Verte, but it also makes whisky, eau de vie, grappa and reserve spirits so we were excited to see what they would do with agave.
The tasting room in St. George Spirits, in Alameda, CA
The tasting room was bustling when we arrived, and we appeared to be the only group interested in the Agua Azul exclusively. According to postcards scattered on the counters, the making of this spirit was a real pain in the rear. First they had to get permission to get the blue agave shipped out of Mexico. (Guess that answers the “can I wait eight years?” question). Then they were at a loss on how to cut the piñas down into workable bits. After employing a chain saw and commercial wood chipper, they finally turned to a commercial dog food mill and found success.
Brad pours a sample of the blanco from St. George Spirits
With so much blood, sweat and tears involved in the making, my hopes were high. Finally – California tequila – err, Agua Azul. (Grover and I speculated previously over what American-made tequila should be called and finally settle on “Gringave.” Gringave is to tequila as “sparkling wine” is to champagne.)
First up was the Cristal. Now, if you read this blog regularly, you know that G and I are añejo and super añejo fans, so I didn’t expect to love the blanco. That said the Agua Azul Cristal is a tasty blanco – clean with a slight floral aroma and herbal body with just a little spice on the back end.
Next up was the repo, and to our surprise it didn’t match up to the Cristal. Although it had a soft vanilla nose and earthy flavor, the body was too smoky – it burned and then petered.
Justin tasting the St. George Distillery Agua Agave.
There seemed to be two different flavors going on that didn’t quite balance. When we finally got to the añejo we realized it was much like the repo, but a more intense version with spice at the back.
Grover was willing to buy a bottle anyway, just for the novelty of an American tequila and appreciation of the efforts St. George went through, but the price held us back. At $120 a bottle, the añejo should have at least been a go-to bottle, but it just wasn’t. (The repo is priced at $80 and the Cristal at $60.) I’m guessing they priced it high since they only produced four barrels – two of Cristal and one each of the repo and añejo.
Scarlet has a taste of the St. George Distillery Reposado.
While our first taste of Gringave was not as palate-pleasing as we had hoped, we’re still looking forward to St. George’s next batch of agave spirits. Now that they’ve got their process down, they can focus on balancing flavors, and maybe, just maybe, they can make the first great American tequila… err, Agua Azul.
I had a bottle of the Agua Azul. I loved it. I didn’t have the benefit of tasting all three though. The earthy/dusty flavor was very good in a rustic way. Not quite a 1942 in richness. I’d want to taste St George’s again if they make another batch.
Sweet! Sounds fantastic. Being a California native, I am all about it! Please keep me posted on ALL events. I live in CO now, but would definitely be up for Tequila events.
Nice review. Now what’s the back story about the illegality of calling it tequila? International copyright or something?
Hi Jay,
Tequila has a denomination of origin, like champagne, so it can only be called tequila if it is produced in Mexico, and only in certain states. That’s why we’re planning on calling our batch “gringave” (-;
Hi guys,
A few months ago I read a brief in the “SF Chronicle” and high-tailed it over the Richmond Bridge from Marin to taste the “Gringave” as well. I was mightily disappointed, I’m sorry to say. The blanco was the “best” of the lot, but that’s not saying much – especially when you look at the price point. I found it very one-dimensional with too much yeast and overtly thin cinnamon flavors. I have tasted MANY other “bottom-feeder” tequilas with the exact same flavor profile for under $20.00. WAY under.
I give the distillers credit for trying (really) and like you, I hope that they will start to concentrate on flavor profiles in their subsequent batches.
As for the INSANE prices… I can only roll my American eyes..
I bought a bottle of the Agua Azul Reposado about 6 months ago, blind tasted it next to Cabo Wabo Reposado, Patron Silver, and Cazadores Reposado, and the Agua Azul was by far the smoothest and best balanced, with a smokiness reminiscent of Mezcal. It was my favorite of the lot. The price point of $80 was worth it for me. Been enjoying it ever since.
You know those nights when you’re sitting around, sipping fine tequila, and you start fantasizing about making your own special brand here in the United States? You start to wonder: Could I grow the agave here? Could I wait eight years for the plants to mature? How the hell would I ground and steam those massive piñas
I had a bottle of the Agua Azul. I loved it. I didn’t have the benefit of tasting all three though. The earthy/dusty flavor was very good in a rustic way. Not quite a 1942 in richness. I’d want to taste St George’s again if they make another batch.
Sweet! Sounds fantastic. Being a California native, I am all about it! Please keep me posted on ALL events. I live in CO now, but would definitely be up for Tequila events.
Nice review. Now what’s the back story about the illegality of calling it tequila? International copyright or something?
Hi Jay,
Tequila has a denomination of origin, like champagne, so it can only be called tequila if it is produced in Mexico, and only in certain states. That’s why we’re planning on calling our batch “gringave” (-;
Hi guys,
A few months ago I read a brief in the “SF Chronicle” and high-tailed it over the Richmond Bridge from Marin to taste the “Gringave” as well. I was mightily disappointed, I’m sorry to say. The blanco was the “best” of the lot, but that’s not saying much – especially when you look at the price point. I found it very one-dimensional with too much yeast and overtly thin cinnamon flavors. I have tasted MANY other “bottom-feeder” tequilas with the exact same flavor profile for under $20.00. WAY under.
I give the distillers credit for trying (really) and like you, I hope that they will start to concentrate on flavor profiles in their subsequent batches.
As for the INSANE prices… I can only roll my American eyes..
I bought a bottle of the Agua Azul Reposado about 6 months ago, blind tasted it next to Cabo Wabo Reposado, Patron Silver, and Cazadores Reposado, and the Agua Azul was by far the smoothest and best balanced, with a smokiness reminiscent of Mezcal. It was my favorite of the lot. The price point of $80 was worth it for me. Been enjoying it ever since.